New York – NYFW: Men’s rolled along with day 3, and the tides took a different turn
today as designers got a little more bohemian for their collections. Asaf
Ganot, who is famous for his deconstructed luxury, with elements like
boiled wool and abraded corduroy being common in his collections, went more
streetwear this season, with Brazilian cities as the inspiration for his
collection. The result was a collection that is very casual cool with white
pants, shorts, and free-fitting jackets. Ganot kept up with the
free-fitting theme in menswear, and stayed away from doing anything too
Nautica was also with the casual cool vibe in men’s wear this season, as
they presented a collection that was filled with swimwear and comfortable
jackets and sweaters. If one thing is clear about the American men’s
fashion market, it’s staying true to the casual nature of the American man,
they are careful when they introduce something too rigid or flamboyant.
Bohemian chic seems to be a theme that could be taking over men’s fashion
though as evidenced by Greg Lauren and Gypsy Sport. Lauren sent a whopping
62 looks down the runway, perhaps more than any designer all NYFW: Men’s.
The painter turned designer who is the nephew of fashion designer Ralph Lauren, apparently stays far away from the
classic preppy country club tropes his uncle built his entire fashion
empire on. Instead, the designer’s signature would have to be his
deconstruction techniques, which left the entire feel of the collection
very bohemian. There was no fine tailoring, but, rather, baggy jackets and
cargo pants with lots of pockets, tank tops, light-weight sweaters leaving
plenty of room to breathe, and Western style hats and overalls.
Day 3 of NYFW: Men’s displayed a whole different set of trends
Lauren has worked to find his very original mark, and no one can accuse him
of copying off his iconic uncle. Gypsy Sport, who just last night received
word that they’d be finalists for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, showed what
the industry would be in store for if they were to win the coveted prize.
Their collection was a cross between bohemian chic and 90s era hip-hop with
tank top and short combinations that seemed to be inspired by basketball
uniforms, jersey style fabrics, and hats that Snoop Dogg would be in line
Of course, it wasn’t all bohemian chic and streetwear yesterday. Two brands
reminded us that there are still those in America who are keeping it
classy. Theory, which recently underwent rebranding by changing the font of
their logo, gave us a taste of what is to come for the newly minted Theory.
Their rooftop presentation showcased offerings for both men and women in
their classic black tailored pants, preppy and business ready black
jackets, and of course, a Theory staple: a blue dress shirt.
It was very business traditional, but had a very high fashion edge. Loris
Diran also seemed to be taking a page out of the classic menswear with an
edge book. The designer, who is famous for dressing stars like Ricky
Martin, Liev Schrieber, and Jonathan Rhys Meyer, showed us how he manages
to keep such an elite clientele.
His high energy runway show included tailored pants, tailored blazers, the
return of the baggy crotch, and the perfect shade of light blue that would
make any man look dapper. While yesterdays NYFW: Men’s offerings were very
eclectic it proves that American menswear certainly is not a one note
market. The American men’s wear market is just as diverse and varied as its
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